Sunday, June 29, 2008

Saturday: Tucumcari to Gilbert

Notice how much more brown this map is than the maps of the previous two days.
NEW MEXICO
Ahhh, a full night's sleep. New Mexico, for me, was better than the Land of Enchantment. It was the Land of Comfort and Rest. I didn't wake up until 6:30 in the morning after falling asleep at about 9 the night before. I needed that so badly! I took my time getting ready, not overly anxious to get back to the driver's seat. I shaved my legs. I even ironed my clothes. Yeah, I wasn't in a hurry.
After getting ready for the day, I went downstairs to the breakfast room and got my fill of oatmeal, applesauce and a banana. I also took two bananas for later. I checked out and got back on the road.
New Mexico is where the landscape changes. The plain planes become intermittently divided by plateaus and scrub oak.
For several years now I have wanted to stop at Bandera Volcano and Ice Caves, but have neglected to do so, usually in too much of a hurry to get to or from Illinois. This time, with no one to inconvenience, the opportunity was mine. And so I got off of the I-40 at Grants and headed down the 53 to see the sights.

At first, I was traveling through over-grazed, desolate ranch land where even the weeds weren't sociable, growing yards apart in the dusty earth. A few scrawny, under-nourished cows, burros, and horses dotted the sparsely populated Land of Impoverishment. But after a short drive I suddenly ran into ponderosa pine forests. Well, that was a surprise. Immediately I felt at home among my tall arborous friends.Visitors to the Volcano and Ice Caves visit the general store to pay a small admittance fee. I decided that I could spare 1/2 an hour here, but didn't want to stay too long. I was getting anxious to see the kids and get home and out of the driver's seat (my bumbum is still upset about the trip). And so, the first question I asked was how long it would take to hike to both locations. The answer from the young Eagle Scout behind the desk: "1 hour, if you are fast."

If I'm fast... ha! I bet I can do it in under 45 minutes, I thought. So I bought my ticket and took my map and started hiking up the trail.
I really was cruising, or at least I thought so as I passed the groups of old women, Korean tourists, and families with small children and strollers. The trail was made of black cinders, abundant near the volcano. Therefore with air temps of 95 degrees and on a sunny day, it was quite warm and toasty on my black, crunchy path. But before too long, I was staring at the inside of a spent volcano.
I really think you can get a better idea of what it was like from this google satellite image than from my photo.

Above: twisted trees growing with shallow roots in the deep, ancient lava rock.

After a nice hot, shadeless hike to the top, I quickly trudged back down and headed for the ice caves. I was glad that I was going into a cold environment after the volcanic-hot hike.

This picture doesn't do justice to the steepness of these old stairs that led down into the frozen cave. After just two or three stairs I could already feel the cold air rising from the ice 40 feet below, cooling and soothing my stiff and tired legs. But these stairs were wicked. There were 3 flights, and I had to take a break between each flight because my knees were hurting so much. The green is the ice. Now, the ice cave isn't spectacular to look at. It IS however, still amazing. I couldn't believe how it stayed frozen in such hot weather. I was told that temperatures never rise above 30 degrees in the cave. Early settlers to this area used to store grocery items inside to preserve their harvest.
The ceiling of the cave.
I stayed down there on the little platform built to overlook the frozen cave for about 10 minutes just chilling out. Eventually I remembered I was in a hurry. I turned to go back up the stairs.
Again, pictures just don't make these stairs look menacing enough. They didn't hurt my knees going up, however. :)
Time to get going again. I hiked back to Vanbi, ignoring the numerous photo opportunities, and headed back on my way. How long did it take me? 58 minutes. Not too bad, considering all of the stops I made and the time I sat in the cave. Near El Morro National Monument, but I didn't stop to see it. There were people hiking all over that big rock, too small in this little picture to make out.
I passed hundreds of these forgotten fixer-uppers.
Can you see the hole in the rock?

I had to take a picture of this house in Zuni. Why? This horse is not tethered, and although you can see the wire fence in this picture, to the left is the wide opening in that fence leading out to the highway. I guess the owners aren't too concerned about their horse wandering off.
Pretty much every home in Zuni had these mud ovens outside along with an enormous pile of firewood. Some had two or three ovens. This home had 5. I just thought it was interesting. Time to hit the road. I am almost to...

ARIZONA

Home. Well, nearly. Only a few hundred miles to go.
And I hadn't seen the last of the long, boring, straight roads.
Pretty soon I was in Show Low and heading homeward on the 60. It was nice to see those homey ponderosas again. Wherever I travel and roam, I am more at home a thousand miles from my house in the pine tree covered mountains than I am here in Gilbert among the palms and saguaros.
The beautiful Salt River Canyon.
I stopped in Globe to grab some Taco Bell after calling home to discover the family had already eaten dinner. All I had eaten all day since breakfast were the two bananas and the apple from the day before. I couldn't eat the Taco Bell, however. My tummy was upset (indicative of my future, but I didn't know it then...).
"Billy Joe, can you go put the cattle out to graze?"

"Sure, Pa. Where?"

"How bout the side of that there mine, Billy Joe?"

"Yes, Pa." Ah, at long last, I made it home about 7:15 Saturday night. This is a pic of my tripometer. I logged all of those miles in three days, stopped at many a scenic outlook, hiked a volcano, played dominoes with cars, made friends with a Heron, unsuccessfully spied on rich horse farmers, and travelled through 9 states. Grab me some ruby slippers, 'cuz there's no place like home. There's no place like home.

Saturday, June 28, 2008

Finally

I am home. I travelled 2134.3 miles in 3 days alone. But I am home.

Basic voluntary muscle movements are about to become non-functioning... blinking, breathing... I am going to bed.

Friday, June 27, 2008

Friday: Rolla to Tucumcari


MISSOURI
Well, the room I stayed in looked nice enough, but honestly I didn't sleep at all the whole night. The pillows were about 12 inches thick, making them too tall to comfortably use, and they were very firm, so they didn't even squish down when you put your head on them. Light from the hall came in so brightly from under the door that I had to block it with towels to sleep (I'm a pitch-black sleeper). That's right... I'm not afraid of the dark. I embrace it. Meanwhile, my window overlooked the busy I-44 outside, which has truckers shifting gears at all hours of the night. Literally, it wasn't quiet in my room for 5 straight seconds the entire 7 hours I was there. I would have left at three in the morning after realizing there was no way I was going to ever fall asleep in that place, but I had already determined that there was a Chevy dealership in Rolla about 1/2 a mile from where I was staying and I wanted to get my wiper fixed before moving on to anywhere. So, I read a lot to pass the time, in hopes that I would eventually become too exhausted to stay awake and nod off. I had rolled a hand towel up under my neck for support and was lying pillowless. Hour after hour I prayed to fall asleep. Finally at 6:00 I woke up, realizing that I had actually been asleep for about an hour and a half. Grateful to have had a little rest, I showered and loaded my eyes with Visine drops to soothe their aching sleeplessness. At 7:00 I called the dealership to see what time they opened their repair department. 8:00, was the answer. I repacked my things, turned on the tube to study the weather, and headed downstairs for the complimentary breakfast. I stole an apple for later and headed out to the dealership right at eight.

I pulled into the Chevy dealership right at 8:00 as they were opening the garage doors. Through the driver window I handed them my wiper and told them I had only owned the car for two days and that it just fell off while I was driving. They said it just must have not been installed correctly at the factory. In less than two minutes, my wiper was attached and I was heading back to the interstate. My scenic route was over. The best and only way to get home on Saturday was for me to interstate it all the way today. Luckily, Missouri is beautiful from anywhere. It really is.
OKLAHOMA
In no time flat I had arrived in Oklahoma (after stopping in Springfield, MO to look fruitlessly for a smoothie shop) and was driving under the MacDonald's on turnpike.
Compared to Missouri, Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky and Ohio, Oklahoma, though pretty, is a little bland. I stopped in Chandler, OK to get gas. I was nearly empty. This old 66 station is no longer in use, but I liked it's reminder of days gone by.
What does it cost to fill up the van? $121.22 Can we drill in Anwar now?!
Pretty soon I was passing through Oklahoma City.
Just past OK City, there was an accident on the other side of the road. Traffic was at a stand still for 4 miles. People were standing outside of their cars taking a smoke, chatting, making new friends, perhaps? Okay, not everyone makes friends as readily as I do.

TEXAS
Scenery became more desolate as I drove. Clearly I was in the "planes" now. I think "plains" would be a more fitting name. Things really are bigger in texas.
These are texas doggies. I didn't see the monster cow that made this patty... But he must have been huge! Maybe it was Paul Bunyan's Ox, Babe.
Honestly, I didn't mean to do it. It was a wicked-big Texas-size sneeze.

Ordinary dominoes aren't big enough for a friendly game of Texan dots. They use cars. And no ordinary cars. Old Cadillacs of course.
Yeah, those are cans of Krylon littering the ground. There were also empty tubes of oil paints everywhere.
Ahhh... Romance...The entrance to Stanley Marsh's Cadillac Ranch. Some call it "Car Henge." Visitors are encouraged to bring their own paint and leave their mark. The only marks I left were my prints in the dust. The sky was beautiful, and pretty much the only thing of interest to watch. The road was one straight trail to what looked to be nowhere. Long and uneventful without so much as a hill or curve to break up the monotony. Roadkill were my mile markers. Armadillos, coyote, pronghorn, and the saddest of the day, a bobcat cub. Number of road tragedies I was responsible for: thousands of bugs plastered to Vanbi. Mass murderess, that's me.

New Mexico

Before too long I had crossed into New Mexico. I planned to go on to Albuquerque, but Shane talked me into stopping in Tucumcari because he knew I hadn't slept much the past 4 days and almost not at all last night. His instructions: stay somewhere nice, where I could actually sleep.I stayed at the Hampton Inn. When I checked in, I asked if they had any quiet rooms left. Not across from the ice machine, swimming pool, or elevator, and NOT facing the road. The answer was, yes. Phew!

I had been planning this night all day. I remembered that every year around Thanksgiving there is something on the news about how Turkey contains L-Tryptophan and causes sleepiness. I knew what I was going to do. For three days I had missed smoothies. Not one smoothie shop in all those miles. Tonight I wasn't even going to look for smoothies. I was going to look for Denny's and order the Turkey and Stuffing meal with mashed potatoes and gravy. Yep. Comfort food. Sleepy food.

By pure luck the Hampton Inn was across the street from Denny's. I got up to my room and decided I would order a meal for pick-up and walk across the street to get it. I called and was put on hold. 10 minutes later, I ordered my Turkey and Stuffing meal. THEY DON'T SERVE IT ANYMORE? Well, then I don't want anything. I really didn't have the energy to think about another solution. Even though it was barely 9:00, I laid down and fell immediately asleep.

Thursday, June 26, 2008

Thursday: Cincinnati to Rolla

Warning: This looks long, but it is mostly pictures!

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OHIO
In the morning, I ate breakfast with Grandma, and prepared to head out on my long journey home. Again, Grandma and I chatted a long time... in fact I left about 2 hours after I said goodbye. :) We just kept talking away. I got these shots of Grandma in front of her house before I left.

First sights of the drive were these quick driving pics of the Cincinnati skyline.
On the plane ride, I had read in one of the airline magazines about Lexington, Kentucky. I was fascinated by the beautiful horse farms and stately mansions. I decided, it being only 80 miles from Cincinnati, that I would drive through on my way home and see it for myself.

KENTUCKY

As I crossed the Ohio River, I saw the clock towers of an old church calling my camera. I got off at the first exit inside of Kentucky to find it. I think I was in Covington, KY.



My German isn't any good, but this looks like Mother of God Church?
I enjoyed walking the old narrow streets for a few minutes taking pictures of the architecture.




And smelling the magnolias in bloom.
But soon enough, I got back in Vanby to head out. I'd never make it home for the weekend if I spent too much time stopping for pics.Just north of Lexington is Georgetown. I got off in hopes of finding a smoothie shop near the college. No such luck. I headed back out in search of horse farms.
I was surprised that the fences and barns were painted black. I expected to see white fences for miles and miles. I also thought I would see beautiful mansions. However, I spent about an hour and a half traversing country roads, passing many luxury and exotic cars (this seemed odd to me in the country) and glimpsing roof lines in the distance of 10,000 sq ft homes, but did not see a single one of them as they were hidden by rolling hills and tall trees. Occasionally I would see magnificent barns larger than most luxury homes, and I passed many intricate 20 foot tall gates, but the driveways were so vast that I never saw what they lead to.
Just one beautiful horse barn.
An example of the gates I passed.
Ancient rock fences lined all of the roads. They were truly beautiful and went on for scores of miles. Some had newer black painted fences built behind them. Some had meticulously been restored and kept up, but they were all beautiful and a reminder that horse farming has been going on here for more than two centuries. I imagined our family as horse farmers and I think Mayzie was the happiest horse farmer in the world.

...
Finally, I was feeling a sense of guilt for putting myself out of the way of home. But I had seen something new today and it was beautiful. I headed for home at last. I decided to go through Louisville so that I could continue my journey through another city I hadn't seen before. I wasn't 15 minutes outside of Lexington, however, when the skies bore down and unleashed a mighty delivery.This was actually what I had expected to be my driving conditions for the entire first day. This picture was taken with the windshield wipers on high. You can't tell, but I was right behind a trucker with his lights on. We were driving about 15 miles per hour on the interstate because of the inclement conditions. It didn't last long, thankfully, and pretty soon I had come into Louisville, Kentucky. I took a few stick-the-camera-in-the-air-and-shoot photos of Louisville, but since I wasn't looking through the viewfinder, they are all... well... crappy. So, I won't bore you with pathetic photos. But here is a shot of the bridge that I crossed into Indiana on.

INDIANA

I hadn't ever been this far south in Indiana before. It is really beautiful country.I decided to take the scenic route during the daylight hours and the interstate at night. I figured this was just another chance to learn about new places. In the middle of pretty much nowhere in Indiana is a little town called Santa Claus. Entering, you are greeted by this sight.It seemed an unlikely locality for a theme park, but the parking lot was overflowing with minivans and I am sure the lines were long. I'm sure midwestern Moms need to get their kids out of the house in the summer, too. I decided that I would bring my kids here next time we are visiting in Illinois.

Bet you didn't know that Santa had a summer home...But he does. And it would seem that he has interests in all of the local businesses. He brought the whole northern family, too. There is Rudolf Lake and Frosty's Pizza, Kringle Shopping Plaza, Holiday Foods, all on Christmas Blvd. The biways I drove in Southern Indiana were beautiful. See how they are covered by old-growth trees?I stopped in Evansville, Indiana to look again for a smoothie shop. Surely this biggish town would have one. I drove through town with the sky looking like it was about to give birth to a billion water babies. I tuned-in to local radio to get the report. Reports were coming in of Quarter size hail and high winds. Tornado warnings and severe storm warnings were in effect for all of the counties that I was planning to travel through. Not good. I decided to get gas while I still could and not rely on small towns to have their stations open late. I was really judging time by the dark and dreary skies. It was only mid-afternoon.I bought Gas at a Casey's where, as you can see, gas was the same price for any octane. $407.9 Which one would you choose? And I asked about smoothie shops when I went in. The attendant said she had never seen one. So, I bought myself some snapple instead. I figured I could only travel through so many towns before I saw one... right?!

...
ILLINOIS
Pretty soon I had crossed into Illinois, the Land of Lincoln, my birth state. Determined to cross the Mississippi before dark, I trucked on. When I got to Rend Lake, I got out to stretch my legs a little.This picture is not in black and white. It is just that gray outside.
This is my new friend. Heron and I watched each other from a distance of about 10 feet for a long time. Heron was pretty sure I didn't see him. He would take a single step and then rock like he was blowing in the wind with the reeds. Then take another single step and blow in the wind. He was certain that he had tricked me. The moment I turned to go back to Vanby however, I spooked him and he flew off in a hurry.In Pinckneyville, Illinois, I stopped to take this picture of an old opera house. It just struck me as odd that this little town of 5000 people had once been high society enough to support one.
I just stumbled across this covered bridge. Well-kept evidence of gone-by craftsmanship.

I decided to cross the Mississippi as far south as I could because of the flooding further north. I chose Chester, IL as my point of crossing. Little did I know that it was Popeye's hometown.
The edge of the park with the Popeye statue overlooks the Mississippi. It also has a marker for the Lewis and Clark Expedition, but the pictures were awful (because I tried to self portrait myself with the explorers). Below is a picture of the road that drives along it completely covered by water.
The flooding had already made it to Chester, but not so badly that the bridge was closed.
MISSOURI
I crossed the Mighty Muddy Mississippi, and entered my 5th and last state of the day: Missouri. Signs of flooding filled the farm lands west of the Mississippi. Fields that should have been black soil and green corn were silver with the reflection of twilight on the surface of the still flood waters.
...
I had been watching the most amazing lightning storm for a few hours as I drove. When I stopped to snag some supper at 10:00PM, I took these pictures from the car window while I ate. They would be better if I had a tripod and different lenses. It looks like there is some daylight, but there isn't. I just was leaving the shutter open a little long to capture the lightning, therefore showing the grass as green as opposed to what I was seeing in the dark: black.
The final hour of my day I drove from Potosi to Rolla on the 8. That's when the clouds made good on their threats and and began to pour torrents on me. I was happy to drive in the rain. Also, even though it was dark as pitch, I was certain that this had to be some of the prettiest country anywhere. I would like to drive the 8 again in the light sometime. The whole drive between Potosi and St. James was curves and hills. Back and forth, up and down, and mostly covered in thick old-growth trees. I am sure it would have been a beautiful drive. But I didn't really see it much except by the occasional light of lightning bursts filtered through the enormous living canopy.
...
Somewhere past Steeleville tragedy struck. My wipers were going full-blast and not doing a good job. Visibility was extremely low for the speed of the wipers. Then, suddenly, my driver's side wiper arm just flew off. The whole arm! From where it attaches to the car. I was already going very slowly due the weather and low visibility, and I had little worries of being hit by a car (I hadn't seen another car since Potosi), so I stopped the car, backed up and searched in the headbeams through the night for my wiper. Poor Vanbi... I wonder if it's like losing a tooth, or more like losing a limb... for me, it was like losing an eye. Wiper found, I very slowly continued on to Rolla, the only town of any size in the area. I had really planned on driving on to Springfield for the night, but this little trouble clenched my fate to stay further East. At St. James I got on the interstate (hazard lights blinking, naturally) and slowly limped my way into Rolla to find lodging.
...
I stopped at three hotels. The first two were, shall I say, steep? I asked the guy at the desk of the second, where to stay that was both respectable and affordable. He recommended the brand spanking new Super 8 and gave me instructions to find it.
...
When I walked into the Super 8 it smelled fresh and clean. Obviously it had been painted recently. The lady at the desk stated that it was only the 8th day the hotel had been open. And the price was right: 1/2 the cost of the first two.
...
I took a room, and after an exhausting and strenuous last hour of wiperless rain driving, I was anxious to hit the sack.Looks nice enough! But was it?! Read my Friday post to find out if I woke up rested or stressed...
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